Roseberys’ March Jewellery, Watches & Luxury Items auction features an outstanding selection of jewels from the late 19th and early twentieth centuries, led by an exceptional range of  characterful Art Deco jewellery from leading makers, including Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.  

A selection of Art Deco jewels

Art Deco jewellery is characterised by clean, geometric shapes, bold coloured gems and eclectic influences, ranging from Ancient Egyptian and Aztec jewellery, to cubist painting. Lacking the fussy ornamentation of its Art Nouveau predecessors, Art Deco jewellery is both functional and beautiful, designed at an historic moment when women’s social roles were shifting, leading them to expect practicality alongside decorative qualities. 

Lot 612: Cartier. An Art Deco French gold, mother-of-pearl and lacquer (lacque burgauté) diamond, coral and onyx vanity case
Estimate: £10,000 - £15,000

A chinoiserie-style Art Deco Cartier vanity case is expected to command strong attention from bidders. The gold exterior is decorated with black lacquer and tinted mother-of-pearl inlay panels, each depicting a government official with a large fan attended by two servants in a garden. Under the aegis of Louis Cartier, the maison pioneered Art Deco jewellery in the 1920s and 30s, producing fashionable vanity cases to meet the demands of women who were applying makeup publicly for the first time. 

Lot 587: Van Cleef & Arpels. An Art Deco rock crystal, sapphire, and diamond dress set.
Estimate: £20,000 - £30,000

Other highlights from the Art Deco period include a sapphire and diamond Van Cleef & Arpels dress set, estimated at £20,000 - £30,000, as well as a striking pair of platinum jadeite jade and diamond drop earrings (lot 575). 

 

Lot 595: A Georgian diamond graduated link necklace, composed of graduated old-cut diamonds
Estimate: £15,000 - £20,000

 

The auction also includes fine examples of diamond set Georgian jewellery, which is becoming harder to find. A Georgian diamond graduated link necklace, estimated at £15,000-£20,000, leads this section of the sale, alongside two Georgian diamond half hoop rings. Also included is an historic 19th century French gold, diamond, emerald and enamel Renaissance Revival brooch, modelled as the figure of 'Mélusine', the legendary founder of the La Rochefoucauld family (lot 584). 

Lot 599: A Retro ruby and diamond necklace, in gold and platinum mount, the central panel with floral motifs
Estimate: £20,000 - £30,000

Quality gemstones are well represented in the auction, with a robust offering of rubies and jadeite jades. A Retro ruby and diamond necklace, made with Burmese rubies and with diamond set bow motifs, is a particularly fine example. 

Lot 25: Hermès. Sieste Au Paradis, 19 Re-issue, of contrasted pink and green silk mountainous landscape...
Estimate: £12,000 - £13,000

The sale is completed by a strong section of handbags and luxury items, led by a limited edition Hermès Sieste Au Paradis. Originally derived from the silk scarf by Aline Honoré, this exquisite design was reinterpreted in 2019 as part of a limited-edition handbag release. The bag is embroidered with contrasted pink and green silk, depicting mountainous landscape scenery. 

Speaking ahead of the sale, Catrin Jones, Head of Jewellery, said, “We’re delighted to present this auction to clients. There are  textbook examples of Art Deco jewellery, as well as truly exquisite antique jewels. With the master jewelers represented, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Mauboussin, this sale promises to be an exciting event for discerning collectors.”