What is the history of etui?
An etui is a small, ornamented case that contained implements for a multitude of daily uses, including bodkins, ear scoops, folding fruit knives and snuff spoons. The name derives from the French word estuier – to keep – they were a must have accessory, especially amongst elite women in Europe, from the 17th to the 19th century. They were often attached to the waist with a chatelaine, a decorative belt hook or clip, suspended with chains which were attached with various items such as thimble cases or vinaigrettes. Etui were superseded by the necessaire in the 19th century, which was a case specifically for needlework tools.
Where were etui produced?
In the 18th century, Paris led the production of fine luxury goods such as etui and snuff boxes, in a variety of precious materials. Fine English examples were also extremely popular, with Staffordshire makers being well-known for enamel etui in colours such as pink and light blue, with hand-painted portraits, vignettes of landscapes and elaborate rocaille embellishments.
Why collect etui?
People collect etui because they are small and finely crafted pieces, often made from luxurious materials with delicate and elaborate decoration. As they were particularly popular during the mid-18th century, they are often in the flamboyant Rococo style with asymmetrical scrolling foliate ornamentation. They are easy to transport, store and display and look wonderful in period bijouterie or wall cabinets.
Is there anything I should look out for as a buyer?
Look at the materials used and the quality of the craftsmanship. Some of these cases were very highly coveted luxury items, that were made from a variety of materials such as agate and bloodstone and were sometimes mounted with gold, embellished with diamonds, or with fine enamelled decoration. Gold mounted examples with original diamond thumb pieces will fetch higher prices than the simpler unadorned examples. It is also worth checking whether the interior is fitted with original implements, as etui are often sold with implements lacking or with later associated examples. It is also desirable to buy an etui with a matching chatelaine clip.
What highlights are included in the Roseberys sale?
There is a beautiful collection of 18th century English etui and chatelaine in our upcoming Fine and Decorative sale on 24th May 2023, highlights include lot 143, a gilt-brass mounted bloodstone etui and chatelaine, £400-600; lot 145 a gold-mounted grey banded agate etui together with a similar gilt-brass mounted example, £800-1200; lot 147, a George III gilt-brass and dendritic agate mounted etui and a gilt-brass chatelaine, £600-800; and lot 138, two Staffordshire gilt-brass mounted enamel examples with finely painted vignettes of landscapes and country scenes, £300-500.
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